"Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life."

My four month study abroad experience has come to end and I am preparing to board my United Airline Flight tomorrow morning.  My bags are packed, the sheets have been taken off my bed, the refrigerator cleaned out, a last semi-warm shower has been taken, and American cell phone numbers have been exchanged.   I can still remember like it was yesterday, entering this quaint little three bedroom apartment in the heart of Rome and thinking this is my new home.  I lived on Via Gregorio VII, 44.  Before leaving when asked why I chose to come to Rome I really did not have a clear answer.  I have studied Rome in Catholic school growing up and I have heard the stories of “when in Rome…” but to this day I can still can not pin point what exactly drew me back to the Rome pamphlet time and time again after searching other countries.  Now that I am on my return, I can say what Italy means to me and what Italy has taught me.  Depending on where you stand in life in goals, aspirations, and dreams Italy will be different.  I believe that Italy will be a different place for everyone who visits.  Over the summer when I was on the phone with my Dad he said to me, “Malia, you have no idea what you are about to experience.”  I responded with the “I know I know.”  I was wrong.  I will share with you some of the biggest things I have learned even though it is hard to express in words.

The biggest lesson I have learned is probably that no matter what I do in my future to not let fear stop you.  Now, I don’t mean to just deny the existence of fear because I am confident it will show up later in life whether I like it or not.  But this time I will be ready as it makes my heart beat faster, my palms sweat and my throat dry and stand up to and tell fear I am going to do what I am going to do anyway despite my fear and that you Mr. Fear can not stop me from doing what I need to do.  Fear can almost be viewed as a thief and if I let it get to me it will steal away many experiences in life.  Leaving my comfortable lifestyle in California to come to a foreign country, not knowing any one, let alone not speaking the language was enough fear to have my stomach flip upside down.  Yet I have learned that sometimes  you have to give up everything to leave yourself enough space to let in the very thing you didn’t originally have space for: a different self-concept, an alternative perception of the world, the ability to slow down and take life at a reasonable pace.  I have learned that once you leave something you are getting something else instead.  I have enormous potential to grow when I allow myself to experience things that are unfamiliar and that sometimes the need for security keeps us trapped in a world where too much is known to us, which does not give the explorer in us room to move.

I have learned that there is good and bad, efficiency and chaos, beauty and ugliness in every culture. By experiencing another culture I have learned to appreciate what is good and sacred in my own American society.  For example, the quality of education I have received, freedom of speech and to do what I want in life, and well in the summer air conditioning just to name a few.  I can also notice the bad as we overuse food pesticides and have a television/video game crazed culture.  As I land on American soil tomorrow I will never be so proud to be an American.  I love America!  Traveling around Europe I have realized that there is such much of the United States I have yet to explore, starting with San Diego.  I have learned that things that I thought I REALLY needed well those things a really just conveniences.  By not having a clothes dryer or a shower that I can turn around in…my clothes still dried and I was still able to maintain be clean.  I have come to the conclusion that God did not give sunshine to get tan but to dry laundry.

I learned that I am capable of confronting scary things of traveling like being a foreign country completely lost and pulling out a map to figure out the bus and metro system, or a social engagement where no one spoke our language. When my friends and I stuck it out and succeeded, we not only gained the satisfaction from what we accomplished but also the ability to confront the next scary thing with the confidence that we will succeed.   I have learn how to make myself comfortable. When you put yourself in a situation that’s unfamiliar and have to learn to adjust, you gain a kind of confidence. I know you can live in a country where everyone speaks a different language and learn to communicate. I know I can be completely lost in an unfamiliar city and use maps, taxis and metros to find your way home. I can decide to book a flight to Prague, pay for the ticket, take the plane, go to Italy and make it back home all on my own. Traveling, you learn about your independent self. I have been extremely lucky and have met some of the greatest relationships.  I plan to cherish the relationships and of course we will be on the phone together talking about our

Now living in Rome, I definitely did not become one of the locals by no means.  In fact, as I leave I am still unable to speak the local language and make cultural mistakes but I have learned that if I remain humble and with enthusiasm I will be embraced warmly.  Sometimes I had no idea what was going on in certain situations but with a smile on my face and a positive attitude I did not need to understand which brings me to my next lesson.  As a student, I am often expected to make sense of things through my text books and homework assignment.  But being immersed in a new culture I will come across things that I simple do not understand, and trying to understand everything is impossible.  Studying abroad has taught me to live with mysteries and the beauty of an unanswered question.

Four months later I am departing from Italy to go back home and  I leave behind countless memories, a lifestyle I loved, and a new environment that gave me the opportunity grow. When I arrive back in the US I am sure I will experience the peace of returning to my language, home, old friends and loved ones. Yes, losing my everyday Italy routine will be missed, but the lessons and prospective of life that I have gained will forever stay with me.  I have been extremely lucky and have made some of the greatest relationships with people from all over the world.  I plan to cherish the relationships and of course we will be on the phone together talking about our reverse culture shock experiences with one another.  I have made new friends but my study abroad experience would not of been the same without the support and knowing I would be returning to my great friends in La Jolla.  Finally, I would like to thank my Mom and Dad for allowing me to have this study abroad experience.  I love you and can’t wait to come home for Christmas.  Ciao Italia….A hui hou!

Roman White Christmas

 Walking out of my front door this morning could not have been more exciting.  The sky was filled with little snowflakes  all fluttering slowly in the air and then melting when hitting the ground.  The snow at this point in the day and very light and quickly hair began have white little snowflakes on it.  Who would have thought a white Christmas in Rome!  I was off to do some window Christmas shopping and go to lunch with Tara's friends who were arriving from London.  When I arrived at the baths of Diocletian the snow started to come down really hard.  All of the Roman monuments had a light layer of snow of them and well in Rome there are many fountains.  All of the fountains were frozen with icicles hanging from them.  In the picture above is at the Bath of Diocletian.  Everyone in the streets and even the Romans were all out watching the rare occasion of the snowfall.  The last time that it snowed was seven years ago.  Roman boys in high school and even college ran around the streets with there shirts off and singing.  After playing in the snow, I went into Hotel Exedra lobby because met a girl on the bus who informed us that Brad and Angelina and Johnny Depp are staying at the hotel this week to promote their new movie The Tourist.  I am off to my final farewell dinner and for my final day in Rome.  Tomorrow I will post my final blog of the semester!  If you look closely in the pictures you can see the snow and the icicles!

No "Ho Ho Ho" in Italy

Winter break has officially begun!   I finished my last final just hours ago and am now preparing for my last few days in Rome.  I am planning a farewell dinner tomorrow night at a restaurant called Rosso Pomodoro.  The past couple days in Rome has been freezing.  The current temperature right now is 0 degrees Celsius.  In fact tonight and then again all day Saturday it is expected to snow.  I have already received an email from my airline to be sure to pay special attention to flight delays because of the forecasted upcoming snow. 

All around Rome, in window shops and stores I have seen little fairy representations and I finally decided to find out what this little fairy figure was all about.  It turns out that while most of us would like to think that once we put Christmas Day behind us, the whole gift-giving, and presents thing is over, and we can breathe a sigh of relief until next December. Not so in Italy. Christmas may come and go but when it comes to exchanging present, the party’s just getting started!  In Italy I have not heard of single mention of Santa Claus or even a picture of him.  Santa Claus is a figure of the Holiday season all over the world, but in Italy, La Befana - Italy’s “good witch” ranks right up there ‘ol Saint Nick. The arrival of La Befana is on the eve of the Epiphany - January 5th to be exact. Legend has it that if a child was good throughout the year, the good witch will swoop down the chimney and leave a small gift. If the child was a real rascal during the preceding 12 months, the kid got a piece of coal.   In the days between Christmas and the Epiphany, Italian markets put out a wide variety of La Befana dolls. Italy’s witch with a heart of gold pretty much conforms to the image of witches that we all hold so dear: a wrinkly old lady hunched over and wearing a shawl. The broom in her hand her only mode of transportation.

Here is the legend associated with La Befana:

As legend has it the three Wise Men were in search of the Christ child when they decided to stop at a small house to ask for directions. Upon knocking, an old woman holding a broom opened the door slightly to see who was there. Standing at her doorstep were three colorfully dressed men who were in need of directions to find the Christ child. The old woman was unaware of who these three men were looking for and could not point them in the right direction. Prior to the three men leaving they kindly asked the old woman to join them on their journey. She declined because she had much housework to do. After they left she felt as though she had made a mistake and decided to go and catch up with the kind men. After many hours of searching she could not find them. Thinking of the opportunity she had missed the old woman stopped every child to give them a small treat in hopes that one was the Christ child. Each year on the eve of the Epiphany she sets out looking for the baby Jesus. She stops at each child's house to leave those who were good treats in their stockings and those who were bad a lump of coal.

The next couple of days are going to be filled with packing and enjoying my final hours in Rome.  Most importantly, I am going to soak up my last days with my friends here before we head off to the airport and spread throughout the country.  

Tis the Season to be Ripped Off?

I have officially experienced my first pick pocketing experience that I have heard Rome is notorious for.  After I finished my final at about 4:00 in the afternoon I began to walk home on the main road.  As I approached a cross walk that was connecting to Piazza Truilusa.  I did not feel anything but I must of sensed something because I turned around to find a mans arm in my backpack!  I was taken so off guard and I screamed really really loud.  I did not even know I could scream that loudly.  Many people on the street turned, I made dead on eye contact with the man (he could not of been more than 5ft tall) and then he darted across the street.  Phew!  Luckily, since I was just coming from school I did not have anything one me except my house keys, three lollipop wrappers (strawberry flavored), a lousy red notebook, a pen that I found on the classroom floor, some post-its with my favorite quotes, and a punch card from my favorite deli.  All together worth about 2 euro.  Luckily, I did not have my laptop on me.

Today is a big day in Rome for the Italian people.  Italy’s Prime Minister, Silvio Berlusconi, is up for a vote of confidence or no confidence today. This is a very important subject for Italians and Italy. The city center was taken over by strikers and demonstrators and buses and trams were shutdown. Italians are generally very peaceful protesters and there is no reason to be overly alarmed, but the tone of the protests and strikes could change depending on the results of today’s vote.  In the late afternoon the results were announced and chaos resulted in the city.  As I was in my final, sirens began to fill up the streets as car booms  went off in the middle of the town.  As I walked out of my final, the police were at our school and I was told I would not be allowed to leave campus until the rioting settled down.  Hours later, I arrived home safe and sound and my apartment has never felt so cozy. 

In class today, my history teacher is kind of a joker and always shows us interesting clips about what is going on in Italy.  On Saturday, the prime minister gave a speech to the Italian youth regarding the current economic condition and the climbing unemployment rate, “I suggest you find a rich man to marry -- or, in the very least, go abroad to find work. And in this suggestion, I am absolutely serious.”  WHAT?! As of today he was just re-elected due to the corrupt system of the transformismo.  I mean that’s great sound Economic advice to give to a conference of students who are worried about their future. NOT!  I am halfway there to winter break with only two more finals left!  I can practically hear the Christmas bells ringing!

Rome by Night

Last night Tara and I decided to hike up Gianicolo Hill which is the highest point in Rome.  I have recently written a research paper on the Italian leader Garibaldi who was a commander and key player in the unification of Italy.  Gianicolo hill is one of the last places that Garibaldi’s Italian troops tried to hold off the numerically superior French forces.  At the top of the hill there is a huge statue of Garibaldi on a horse.  Gianicolo hill is also thought to place where Saint Peter had his upside down crucifixion.  Even if I had failed to experience this surge of Italian nationalism, once at the top of the hill there is sweeping panoramas of the Vatican on one side and the entirety of Rome from the other side.  We strategically decided to go the hill when it was dark (and not raining but clear skies) so we would be able to see all of Rome lit up at night.  Rome, during the day has its own special charm but at night, when the lamp-posts in the road turn on, the city seems like an entirely new place.  From above you could see the colors of lamps reflect colors on the Tiber River, hear the people below, and see the numerous twinkling bell towers and domes scattered across the skyline.  At exactly 7:00, the entire city began to ring from the different bell towers.  It was almost as if the city was singing its own song, and from that high up, I could hear over 20 different bells ringing.  Living in a huge city can sometimes be overwhelming and it is nice to escape and perch up above and view the hustle and bustle below.  I have my first final exam tomorrow in Developmental Economics. 

Oh my Dearest Clementine

I started my day this morning early with a long run.  My roommates, Jenelle and Jill, and I are planning on doing the Valentine's Day 10K in Cornado in February.  Jenelle is a faster distance runner than I am so I need to get into extra good shape to keep up with her!  I ran on the main road outside my apartment, Via Gregorio VII.  On that street there is anything and everything you could possibly find.  From grocery stores, toy stores, coffee shops, hair dresser, Toyota car store, hardware, baby clothes, jewelry, and much much more.  On my run, I pass many many pizza places.  As you walk down any street in Rome, you will see pizza places advertising “Forno a legna.”  Forno is stove, legna is wood, so “forno a legna,” is a special wood fire stove that is used to cook the delicious flat pizza in this part of Italy.  I never thought to stop and wonder where all this wood to fire up the stoves comes from.  Not until a large truck that was  BLASTING music was stopped in the middle of the street.  All of the sudden, people with wheelbarrows materialized and started loading up on firewood.  Wait. What? WHAT is going on? The music, the wheelbarrows, the wood- in the middle of the city!  I was confused until I realized that they were carting the firewood into the pizza parlor across the street, and I had a very slow-dawning “A-ha!” moment.  The legna has to get to the forno somehow, and in order to know the wood has arrived is when you hear the music.

Favorite thing about December in Italy so far? Clementines.  They are EVERYWHERE. In every store, at every fruit stand and even growing on trees lining the streets of Rome.  I eat them like candy.  Don’t mind if I do stop for a quick little snacky during my run.  While running along the street I also admire how old the architecture is.  In America, it’s always “out with the old and in with the new!”  We love to get new cell phones, buy new clothes, upgrade electronics and trade in our cars.  Consumerism defines the US and in fact increased consumption is what keeps our economy on track.  That’s why it feels so strange to be surrounded by things that are so old.  Rome has managed to be a modern city built around an ancient one.  It is impressive to see the balance of old and new.  There doesn’t seem to be the same desire to demolish something and start again.  Instead, you just build around what is already there.  This balance is easily spotted around all the Roman monuments- the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the famous piazzas… but it’s also beautifully done in my neighborhood.

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly

As school is coming to an end, I do not have much to talk about except my daily usual routine.  When I first moved to Rome, one difference that I noticed immediately was how loud the city was outside my window.  The numerous church bell towers ( ringing on the hour and half hour), the cars not driving but zooming by, honking,  the conversations (and some arguments) of people walking by, and the sound of ambulance echoing all 24 hours of the day.  At first, it was very loud especially when trying to sleep.  Within weeks, however, the sounds disappeared.  I do not hear anything!  The mind is an interesting thing.  Now, if I could only consciously control which sounds to block out!

 I have lived in Italy for over 3 months now and I can come to a few conclusions about the good, the bad, and the ugly.  Lets start with the good.  Life in Italy is amazingly beautiful but many times you have to slow your pace to appreciate (or even see) it. Italy is filled with art and culture that dates back forever. Italians are not only friendly but are good friends. The Italian language is fun and beautiful.  The bad….School for children is six days a week.  The cost of living is expensive.  Too many people smoke.  The ugly consists of basically anything and everything that deals with the infrastructure of Italian life (government, schools, etx.).  The government is extremely corrupt.  Sometimes my roommates and I will go online to a website that has Italian news consisting of the local governmental issues, mainly focusing around the Italian prime minister, Berlusconi.  We read the issues facing the government almost as if it was a comic book.  He has been in and out of jail for bribery and is currently under another investigation.  Last week on the FRONT page of the newspaper, the main article focused on how Berlusconi has requested that soap was now being made with his picture ingrained into it.  However, this has caused great opposition because many Italians are opposed to Berlusconi and do not want to be cleansed by his corrupt way.  A bill is currently being written to address and solve this issue.  Haha o jeez.